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Third Wave Coffee Roasters in Central Ohio
You might not know whether you like coffee—even if you’ve been drinking it for years. If you haven’t had coffee less than 10 days out from the roaster, then you have simply never fully experienced true coffee. We are fortunate in Central Ohio to have some outstanding craft roasters. My aim here is to convince you why you must try fresh-roasted coffee. Devotion may follow. And, I offer up what I believe are the best craft coffee roasters in Central Ohio.
First, some context. In the U.S., a movement began in the 1990’s to approach coffee as an artisanal food, akin to wine. Breaking from the traditional view of coffee as merely an agricultural commodity, this so-called “Third Wave” of coffee focuses on quality and variety in growing region/farm, in processing, in selection, in roasting and finally, in preparation.
Pulitzer Prize winning food critic Jonathan Gold of the LA Weekly put it like this:
“The first wave of American coffee culture was probably the 19th-century surge that put Folgers on every table, and the second was the proliferation, starting in the 1960s at [Peet’s Coffee and Tea] and moving smartly through the Starbucks grande decaf latte, of espresso drinks and regionally labeled coffee. We are now in the third wave of coffee connoisseurship, where beans are sourced from farms instead of countries, roasting is about bringing out rather than incinerating the unique characteristics of each bean, and the flavor is clean and hard and pure.”
The focus is on discovering and then bringing out what a particular coffee has to offer.
Coffee is actually a fruit. It grows on a tree, ripens and is harvested. Then, the flesh of the fruit itself is removed, and the seed (called a “cherry”) is dried and hulled. Like other fruits—apples, for example—different varieties offer different flavors. The geographic region where the coffee is grown and the processing method of the coffee each influence the flavor even more than the particular varietal, in many cases. For example, the same varietal, Bourbon (pronounced bour-BONE), grown in Western Kenya and dry-processed can taste pleasantly acidic with a touch of citrus. In contrast, Bourbon grown in regions of Costa Rica and wet-processed might offer a mild nutty taste, coating the tongue with a lingering sweetness.
A universe of distinct and delicate flavors are all locked up in the world’s coffee beans. The Coffee Research Institute reports that the number of aromatic compounds identified in coffee is now over 800. By comparison, some total the number of aromatic compounds in wines around 250. Careful roasting unlocks the potential of the specific green coffee. To understand why fresh roasted coffee is vital to excellent coffee requires just a touch on the science of the roasting process. The heat of roasting drives moisture out of the bean, and the cellulose structure of the bean itself changes. Delicate oils draw together and rise to the surface layers of the bean. The roasting process creates new aromatic compounds. As the roast continues, natural sugars present within the bean begin to carmelize, among at least six other chemical processes. Together with the flavors imparted by the roast level, these sugars and oils are what give coffee its complex flavor and aromatics. As the roast extends, the flavors of the variety, the growing region and the processing style soon are matched and balanced by the flavors imparted by the roasting process. The bittersweets, chocolate notes and deeper flavors emerge. If the roast is continued even further, the roast-imparted flavors dominate and the unique flavors are eclipsed altogether. Many of the initial delicate oils are literally burned away. This is the classic French roast profile—pungent, dry and powerful.
Here is where the art of roasting lies. The roastmaster chooses the best combination of temperature, time and duration to reveal and showcase the desired features of the coffee.
For example, are the floral aromas of a Villa Sarchi varietal from Costa Rican better at a lighter roast? Or, does this coffee really shine when the sweetness and dry cocoa hints are revealed by a deeper roast.
Flavor profile and aromatics reach their peak between 4 to 10 days from roast, generally. Once roasted, the coffee begins an unstoppable march to staleness. When exposed to air, these volatile, delicate oils begin to oxidize and stale. Vacuum sealing, special packaging and even nitrogen flushing only delay the inevitable. The delicate and complex flavors and aromatics recede. Once your coffee is three weeks old–at most, four–its beauty is gone. At this point, the predominant flavors are the strong bitters and sours common in most all pre-roasted, pre-ground, packaged coffee sold in stores. Another treasure of Costa Rica is a parallel story: once the full beauty of the renown Blue Morpho butterfly is gloriously revealed, only several weeks of life remain.
Regrettably, the bitter brew sitting on most hot plates, languishing in most air pots and sloshing in diner mugs across town was stale before it was “freshly brewed.” You should give truly fresh-roasted coffee a try without the usual cream and sugar. Without the bitterness of stale and oxidized coffee, you might just re-discover coffee at its finest right here in Columbus.
Craft Coffee Roasters in Columbus
Each of these roasters is focused on quality coffee and passionate dedication to roasting it. In alphabetical order.
Backroom Coffee Roasters
1442 West Lane Avenue (Upper Arlington)
This mother and son duo is the new kid on the block. Backroom Coffee Roasters was started in May 2010 by local bicycle shop entrepreneur Chris Bishop. Literally in the backroom of his Trek Columbus bicycle shop at 1442 West Lane Avenue, Chris and his mother, Trish Bishop, roast and sell their coffee through local specialty grocery stores, like Huffman’s Market and Weiland’s Gourmet Market. Check their website for other locations near you or to order coffee directly from Backroom Coffee Roasters. Backroom Coffee Roasters offers a deeper roast style popular in the Pacific Northwest. Be sure to try their Biker’s Blend—a well-composed blend of coffees from different parts of the world.
Café Brioso
14 East Gay St. (Downtown)
Café Brioso is a true leader in Central Ohio specialty coffee. If you are fortunate enough to have previously enjoyed craft roasted coffee from some of the best third wave roasters in the U.S., then Brioso’s brews will contend with these standards. All coffee is roasted on-site. Roastmaster Jeff Davis tweaks out the finest flavors from some of the best beans currently on the international market. Unique to Café Brioso, several of the same coffees are roasted to different roast levels – both “full city” and “vienna.” This offers a chance to taste the cup characteristics imparted by the roast level. Café Brioso offers two different proprietary espresso blends, and impressive latte art. While there, buy a half-pound of coffee to take with you–especially if the Full City Ethiopian Sidama is currently offered. You can find Brioso’s coffee in many area restaurants.
Impero Coffee Roasters
849 North High Street (Short North)
3041 Turnberry Court (Grove City)
Expanding into the Short North in December 2009, Impero Coffee Roasters is a neighborhood favorite coffee shop and an anchor of Columbus’ specialty coffee scene. Owners Matt and Lucinda Sontag have been roasting coffee in Central Ohio for almost ten years. Their coffees are selected crops from particular farms or co-ops within the specific region of origin. A currently featured Ugandan Bugisu coffee is accompanied by information about and pictures of the farm owners. Their excellent roasting is matched by excellent baristas in both locations. Impero Coffee Roasters offers espresso, pour-over, French press and drip coffees but also less common brew methods, including Chemex, siphon brewed and toddy cold-brewed. Impero Coffee Roasters also roasts for several other Ohio eateries and coffee shops. I am hooked on the Guatemalan coffee from the El Injertal farm in the Huehuetenago region.
Stauf’s Coffee Roasters
Original location at 1277 Grandview Avenue (Grandview)
First opened in 1988, Stauf’s was the original specialty coffee roaster in Central Ohio. For many years Stauf’s has provided our community with the most extensive selection of fresh-roasted single origin and blended coffees from around the world – up to 20 specific origins and blends at any given time. The team at Stauf’s offers extensive information about their coffees, together with a broad selection of coffee brewers, grinders and other equipment. Each day they offer four espressos: 2 different house blends, a decaf and one special offering (last time was Fair Trade Organic Ethiopian Sidama).
Yeah Me, Too
3005 Indianola Ave. (Clintonville)
In the spirit of focusing on what you do best and leaving all else to others—Yeah, Me Too wins the prize. What’s there: coffee roaster, French presses for brewing hot coffee, toddy brewer for brewing iced coffee and whole-bean, roasted coffee for sale. They accept cash only. What’s not there: credit/debit cards, tables, espresso, wi-fi and anything detracting from a focus on fresh roasted coffee. The offerings vary by day. My cup was an excellent organic Peru from the Pangoa region.
Luck Bros. Coffee House
1101 W 1st Ave (Grandview)
I would list Luck Bros. as an Up-And-Comer because Luck Bros. is not, at the moment, in full roasting production for its customers, although rumors swirl. Luck Bros. deserves a mention in any discussion of Third Wave coffee in Columbus. No one in Central Ohio serves better coffee and espresso. No one is Central Ohio is more passionate about outstanding specialty coffee. Several of the roasters featured here are on par with Luck Bros. in coffee and passion, but none surpass them. The staff will delight in growing your coffee knowledge and appreciation. They offer coffees freshly roasted by many of the best Third Wave roasters in the country (Intelligentsia, Counter Culture Coffee, Ritual Coffee, Leftist Coffee, Gimmee! Coffee, Stumptown Coffee Roasters and others) and locally (several of the roasters featured here). Ask the barista what coffees are offered on their Brew Bar. Start with a Brew Bar pour-over of your choice and then get a shot of espresso.
Red Bike Coffee Roasters.
492 North Cassady Ave. (Bexley)
Red Bike Coffee Roasters is the roasting arm of the Bexley Coffee Shop. In 2010, Bexley residents Sean and Paulette Sullivan began roasting in their lovely coffee shop. Red Bike continues to expand and refine the coffees they offer. With their broad culinary experience and real dedication to their customers and their craft, Red Bike Coffee Roasters is poised to become one of the leading Central Ohio craft coffee roasters. Try their Tanzania Peaberry Kilimanjaro for a classic East African coffee.
Treat your inner coffeegeek: Stop by one of these shops or buy some of these beans for the best coffee Columbus has to offer. Expand your coffee understanding: lurk the forum at coffeegeek.com. A veritable coffee university awaits at sweetmarias.com. For a time in the late 90’s, founder Thompson Owen ran his green coffee selection and sales operation from E. 2nd Ave. in the Short North.
David Graham is a wannabe barista and coffee roaster hobbyist. His passion for coffee is exceeded by his passion for family and faith.